Recipefiesta

A short ride from Amsterdam, this laid-back city has great museums, cosy bars and a new exhibition featuring the works of Rembrandt and local artist Frans Hals this winter

It’s only 15 minutes away from the Dutch capital by train, but Haarlem feels a million miles from Amsterdam, and perhaps provides a more typical glimpse of the Netherlands than trailing around the well-worn tourist trail of Van Gogh, coffee shops and red lights. An attractive city of cobbled streets, gabled houses and canals, Haarlem is, as the Dutch would say, a gezellig sort of place – cosy, convivial, and full of intriguing nooks and corners. I’ve been coming here for years, and it seems odd that Haarlem is not better known, at least to UK visitors.

This winter there’s the added draw of an exhibition devoted to the works of a local boy, the 17th-century painter Frans Hals, and his better-known contemporary Rembrandt in the city’s Frans Hals Museum (until 28 February 2027). No one really knows whether these two titans of the Dutch Golden Age of the 16th and 17th centuries ever met, but seeing their work hung together like this is powerful and compelling. The museum used to be the Oudemannenhuis (Old Men’s House), a retirement and care home where Hals lived out his final penniless years.

Saunas, seal-watching and spectacular skies feature in our picks of great places for a short break to enjoy winter in the raw. Plus boltholes to cosy up in

A murmuration of starlings is one of winter’s most mesmerising spectacles; thousands of birds, swooping in formation, before communally roosting to stave off the winter. Piers are a favourite place to roost, with up to 50,000 zooming around in the skies above Aberystwyth, best seen on an afternoon stroll along the prom. The town is also home to the National Library of Wales which is well worth a visit, both for its excellent gift shop and the chance to browse a few of the 8 million books and periodicals within its walls. Y Ffarmers, which is a few miles out of town, is excellent for a long lunch, and Gwesty Cymru, on the seafront, has doubles from £140 B&B.

Hiring a personal tutor to learn French as we explore the beautiful city of Rouen proves a refreshing and affordable alternative to language school

I’m walking beside the River Seine in the French city of Rouen when I realise that I’ve been speaking French – without pausing to find a word or struggle with grammar – for five whole minutes. Anna, my French “prof” for the week, nods encouragingly and so I continue. It’s a breakthrough moment, if only for my confidence.

This is the last day of a DIY language course that I devised when Rouen’s language schools told me they were full for the only week I could get away. When I then enquired about their private tutors, I was told no one was available. This turned out to save me a pretty penny: language school tutors cost €60 an hour while Anna – who I discovered on the website Apprentus – is a cost-effective €19 an hour.

Minas Gerais’ natural wonders sent Charles Darwin into ecstasies, but the area has always been dominated by mining. Now ecotourism offers a lifeline

When we come out of the bamboo forest and enter the high-altitude grassland, Marcelo begins to walk faster. All around us, dark peaks loom through the early morning clouds. The grasses and flowering mimosa bushes drip from the mist. It is hard to imagine, but this area suffered a devastating fire two years ago. Marcelo has not been back since, and he is anxious. “We have some extremely rare endemic species up here,” he says. “I hope they’ve survived.” A hummingbird zips past, heading for a banana-shaped yellow-and-red flower. “Planalto hermit,” identifies Marcelo. “The bill fits the flower.”

We are in Brazil’s Santuário do Caraça, a 40 square-mile haven of rugged wilderness in the state of Minas Gerais. That name may be unfamiliar to many outside Brazil, but landlocked Minas Gerais, which borders the states of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo to the south, covers an area larger than mainland France and Switzerland combined. Not only that, but with abundant mineral resources, a rising population, and fabulously rich flora and fauna, it makes for an intriguing place to explore.

Former loggers and poachers have embraced ancient traditions to promote and protect the Cardamom Mountains’ ever-threatened natural wonders

I’m two hours downriver from the Chi Phat community ecotourism camp, in the Koh Kong region of Cambodia, when my phone signal fizzles out completely. It’s dawn and we’re chugging through the snaking Preak Piphot River towards the starting point of a 9-mile (15km) overnight trek into the country’s sacred, spirit-filled Cardamom mountain range. The region, a six-hour bus ride west of the capital Phnom Penh, recently made global news for being home to a raft of new species of fauna and a sanctuary for rare and endangered wildlife.

As well as its plant and protection initiatives, it is also known for its storied history, from ancient burial grounds to the last stronghold of Pol Pot’s fleeing Khmer Rouge fighters into the late 1980s. If trees could talk … Well, many believe these ones can.

A project to convert the country’s traditional kulla houses into guesthouses offers a true flavour of ancient hospitality in a part of the country almost untouched by tourism

Sunlight pours through a tiny stone window, causing the wooden floorboards to creak as they warm up. The sound of sheep’s bells filters in from a passing flock. The scent of baking bread mingles with smoke from the previous evening’s fire. I wake up feeling I’ve been transported back to another time – but in reality I’m in modern-day Albania.

I’m staying in a kulla, one of the traditional stone tower houses that are found throughout northern Albania, Montenegro and North Macedonia. They once protected families during times of conflict and sheltered weary travellers on trade routes, before mostly falling into disrepair in the 20th century. A new long-distance trail developed by the Albanian Agritourism Association aims to return some of them to their former glory and give visitors a chance to discover a part of Albania almost untouched by tourism.

A new optimism pervades the Serbian capital following the recent elections, making it a great time to visit its bars, clubs, markets and riverside hotspots

There’s a celebratory mood in Belgrade, the Serbian capital. For almost two years protest has shaped everyday life as a student-led movement demanding accountability and an end to corruption gathered momentum after a concrete canopy at Novi Sad’s newly renovated railway station collapsed in November 2024, killing 16 people.

Demonstrations grew into a nationwide challenge to the government and finally, last month the student-backed list won an outright majority in parliamentary elections – a dramatic shift in Serbia’s political landscape. Crowds gathered in Slavija Square, and celebrations spilled into the streets and bars. The formation of a new government still lies ahead, but the city feels full of possibility.