Go south of Snowdon to find peaceful walks away from the crowds

Magnificent valleys, lookouts and rivers to stroll alongside add to the tranquillity in a quieter part of Snowdonia national park

As I come to the summit cairn, I am in for a shock. There is another human being. We chat for a minute and then he sets off down the ridge. Now I have the place to myself and can sit in the sunshine, scanning all the peaks of north Wales, from Cadair Idris in the west to the Berwyns in the east. In between, to the north, is Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon), with the jutting shoulder of Crib Goch visible. It seems strange to think that while almost every peak I am looking at may either be deserted or host to a handful of walkers, Snowdon on this bank holiday Sunday will likely have tens of thousands of feet tramping over it.