Kayak, cook and camp in Sweden’s wild isles

A foraging and campfire cooking adventure in an uninhabited Baltic archipelago proves a meditative treat for our fungi-fancying writer

Helena crouches down, lifts the pot lid and wafts the rising steam towards her nose. “Time for the mushrooms,” she says. A basketful of chopped fungi is thrown into the simmering stew and stirred. “That will thicken it.” The lid is replaced. “We need a few more coals on top of the lid.”