‘It’s still as beautiful as ever’: the changing face of the French Alps

The reality of the climate crisis is that Chamonix valley’s glaciers are shrinking, though tourist guides and their clients are finding ways to help and adapt

The Glacier du Tour sits on top of the mountain like a cresting wave frozen in time. From the nursery slopes of La Vormaine, to a soundtrack of playful shrieks, laughter and skis swishing through the slush, I admire its blueish hue and jagged blocks of ice, while lamenting how much it has retreated since I lived here 23 years ago.

The Mont Blanc massif is one of the most densely glaciated areas in the Alps and in the Chamonix valley, glaciers are visible from almost every vantage point, including each of the town’s four main ski areas: Le Brévent, La Flégère, Grands Montets and Le Tour (which includes the beginner slopes of La Vormaine).