Seals, the circus and seaside walks: a car-free break on the Norfolk coast

The coast around Great Yarmouth is home to some of Britain’s best wildlife, Roman ruins and classic seaside entertainment

Every winter, thousands of grey seals give birth on the beaches near Winterton-on-Sea. By late November this year, the Friends of Horsey Seals had already counted 1,172 pups, with many more on the way. The Friends have looked after the growing colony since 2012, to make sure visitors can watch safely without disturbing the wildlife. I’m alarmed that one fluffy white pup seems to be bleeding, until a warden points out the red streak is the umbilical cord. The scene in front of me, teeming with life, is one of Britain’s great natural spectacles.

Winterton-on-Sea is a 45-minute ride on Coastal Clipper bus 1 from Great Yarmouth, which has smart, hourly trains through the marshy Broads from Norwich. I’ve spent much of the past decade exploring East Anglia and thought I knew what to expect from a minibreak on the coast near Yarmouth. Turns out there’s plenty I don’t know: about lichen, about the circus, and seals. I talk to several seal wardens, all devoted, knowledgable, and keen to emphasise that people should keep off the beach. A raised flipper, which looks like a cheerful wave, actually means stay away.