Fort for the day: Britain’s ancient hilltop camps are waiting to be explored

Our writer joins a hill fort expert in North Yorkshire and finds himself inspired to investigate further. Plus five more UK earthworks sites

In the church we catch sight of a 17th-century cavalier, ringlets cascading over his shoulder armour, rising on to his elbow as if disturbed from a long nap. Under the bell tower we discover stones incised with the shapes of broadswords, medieval faces and a Celtic whale. Then, emerging into the sunlight, we investigate the strange circular graveyard, wondering if this must have been a pagan site. From the shadows of ancient yew trees, a green bird bursts out, showing us the way down into a field full of furrows where a crystal stream burbles. Ahead of us on a turfed mound is a peculiar shrine.

“This is exactly what I want,” says my companion for the day, Carol Watson. “A good fort should be about exploration and discovery.”