A spiritual walk on the South Downs: the Old Way pilgrims’ route

Walking an East Sussex segment of a newly devised trail leads to encounters with art history, ancient churches and natural wonder

As I heft the weight of the backpack on to my shoulders, I ask myself: am I too old for this? In my 20s I would regularly take off for days of wild camping, but now, in my 40s, I have accumulated more than a few aches from all those youthful adventures. Still, on this pilgrim trip across the South Downs from Lewes to Cuckmere Haven, I can leave the tent behind, as I will be sleeping in places of sanctuary along the way.

The Sanctuary Network has been set up by the British Pilgrimage Trust along three routes, the Old Way in Sussex, the Golden Valley Pilgrim Way in Herefordshire, the Northern Saints Trails and the Cornish Celtic Way. The aim is to offer walkers, low-cost accommodation in the heart of communities in return for registering as friends of the BPT and a donation of between £5 and £20.