Finding a slow but steady rhythm: a self-guided skiing tour through Norway’s forests

Cross-country ski-touring needs navigation skills and stamina, but after exhilarating days on the snow, Norway’s network of winter huts offer cosy respite

Winter storms in the hills can change the best of plans. Outside the door of the tiny Norwegian touring cabin, snow is blowing sideways and drifting across our tracks. Wreaths of mist filter the surrounding trees into charcoal smudges.

Walking to the woodshed, let alone a long day travelling on skis with heavy rucksacks, seems unappealing. So we throw another log into the woodburner and break out the cards and Kindles to wait out the weather.