Historic towns linked by a Severn ramble: my car-free break in Shropshire

A train to Bridgnorth, then buses and walking boots open up the delights of this rural corner – including a clock that goes backwards

Bridgnorth has one of England’s oldest cliff railways, a holiday cottage with a hidden cave and a tower that leans more than Pisa’s. But I’ve been drawn to south-east Shropshire by the prospect of bracing winter hikes, friendly pubs and a trip to the sights of Shrewsbury. I arrive in Bridgnorth by bus from Wolverhampton (£3.90). The steep, atmospheric cliff railway (£2 return) carries me up to the High Town just as a rainbow arcs across the valley below.

There are views across the River Severn to wooded red cliffs from nearby Castle Walk, which leads to the 18th-century church of Saint Mary Magdalen, designed by bridge-builder and engineer Thomas Telford. The sandstone castle next to it was blown up by Roundheads and now leans at 15 degrees – four times the angle of the tower of Pisa – among bright beds of begonias.