A local’s guide to Naples: pizza, palazzos and dancing under the stars

Restoration architect Mariano Mazzella knows where to find the best pizzerias, palazzos, bars and views of Vesuvius in Italy’s most vibrant city

Our pizza, pastries, pasta and ice-cream are wonderful, but not that healthy. To prove that good food can be good for you, fitness fan Marco Pera and friends set up restaurant Sano Sano in central Naples. They source organic vegetables and grains, fish and meat from within 20km, cook at low temperatures where possible (there’s no deep frying), and use top-quality, single-estate olive oil. Unusually for Italy, its two floors and terrace are open from breakfast until midnight. I love its linguine with cherry tomatoes and almond pesto, but the skin-on roast potatoes are glorious too, as is seafood salad with blueberries and redcurrants.