A local’s guide to Antwerp, Belgium: high art, gritty graffiti and great coffee

From Rubens and van Eyck to cutting edge street murals and fashion, art is at the heart of the Flemish city, says local guide Tim Marschang. The beer and cocktails are decent too

Antwerp runs on coffee and my favourite haunt is Tartoer, a tucked-away coffee shop near Grote Markt in the old town. It has great homemade cakes and vintage Vespa memorabilia. My other favourite is Coffeebar Zulma in my home neighbourhood of Merksem – it serves the best chocolate cake in Antwerp.