Polar bears, melting glaciers – and a blues festival: my wild week on Svalbard

It’s one of the world’s northernmost communities, but as well as profound natural beauty, at its heart is a lively hub full of Norwegian cheer

Don’t worry,” says our guide Charlotta, flashing her rifle. “I’m really quick if I need to be.” My 12-year-old daughter glances around the Arctic wilderness anxiously. As much as she loved Philip Pullman’s armoured bears, one of the reasons she longed to visit, our proximity to the real thing is starting to dawn on her.

There are road signs all over town warning us about the risk of polar bears. They number around 3,000 here, compared to 2,500 or so human inhabitants – which is why the Svalbard authorities insist you walk beyond the main settlement only with an armed guide.