A local’s guide to Innsbruck, Austria: from Christmas markets to clubbing and cable car rides

This gateway to the Alps offers panoramic walks and colourful neighbourhoods plus drinks and dancing late into the night, says climate expert and yoga teacher Suzanne Whitby

Tirol is known for its hearty fare, but it’s not all about meat. For vegetarians and cheese lovers, Kaspressknödel (cheese dumplings in broth or with salad), and Kasspatzln (homemade pasta with melted cheese and crispy onions) are good winter fuel. Most restaurants also cater for vegans now, which wasn’t the case 10 years ago.