‘Only 11 other people have completed it’: cycling the 7,600km European Divide

From the Norwegian fjords to the mountains of Portugal, this epic bikepacking adventure through nine countries has beauty – and challenges – in spades

Last summer I cycled 7,600km (4,722 miles) along a route called the European Divide Trail, which runs through nine countries, all the way from Arctic Norway to the Atlantic coast in Portugal, mostly camping out along the way. The idea was sparked by an article I saw on the internet – on a website called bikepacking.com. I slowly went from thinking, “That looks cool,” to, “I’m going to do it.” It seemed a bit crazy, but somehow a few months later, in June 2022, it was happening! I was heading off for three months – and I’d even persuaded my friend Max to come along for the first three weeks.

The Norwegian border with Russia