I swam with seals and puffins off the south-west coast of Wales

Our writer has ‘one of the finest wildlife watching experiences ever’ with the playful sea creatures around Pembrokeshire’s rocky islets

Having spent the day driving through perfect sunshine, I reach Pembrokeshire’s Marloes peninsula and enter a blank wall of cloud. I pitch my tent at West Hook Farm campsite in thin drizzle, then walk on to the headland, watching the cloud rise to let the late sun blast underneath. A rainbow strums a perfect chord across the sky behind me. An hour after sunset the sky is cloudless.