'It makes you feel alive while half-killing you': cycling in Carmarthenshire

Between the Brecon Beacons and the Cambrian mountains is an area of big hills and big views, laced with quiet roads perfect for those on two wheels

“So,” my hostess Tanya said as I arrived at Penstacan, an organic farmstay in the Welsh village of Cilycwm, “they’re making you go over the Black Mountain, are they?’

Did I detect a note of concern in her voice? You know, I believe I did.