Cork on a Fork: Ireland’s second city tucks into a foodie festival

Last month’s inaugural event, featuring Keralan, Palestinian and Italian treats, was inspired by a proud domestic culinary tradition

County Cork has always enjoyed a reputation for serving the best food in Ireland. Buoyed by great local producers such as Ballycotton Seafood and the Jameson whiskey distillery, along with the city’s English market, its modern culinary scene started in the 1960s when Myrtle Allen pioneered field-to-fork dining at Ballymaloe House. In the 1970s, Arbutus Lodge in Cork city became the first Michelin-starred restaurant in Ireland. Over the years, the city’s food scene, influenced by an influx of international chefs, has evolved impressively, mixing traditional Irish food with something more innovative.

Now in the English Market alongside seafood, butchers and poultry counters are Japanese food stalls, charcuterie and kombucha stands. On the city’s docks, the Marina Market (established during lockdown) is a container city of hipster booths serving smoothie bowls at Young Plant, Mexican food at Burittos & Blues, and Korean fried chicken at Poulet-Vous. Fifteen restaurants in the county are listed in the Michelin guide, among them the Turkish Dede in Baltimore, which has one star, while across the city diners battle for tables at Michelin-listed restaurants such as Ichigo Ichie (one star), Greenes, Da Mirco and Goldie, which has a Bib Gourmand award.