Dutch paradise: my stay at one of the world’s biggest manmade nature reserves

This new archipelago an hour from Amsterdam offers visitors pristine empty sands, a wealth of wildlife and innovative new studios to hunker down in

The noise of the town had faded away and there was nothing on the horizon. No windmills, boats, islands or dikes. Ahead was the void of a glassy-calm lake that stretched for 270 sq miles around us. The landscape was static, empty, elemental. “We’re trying to wipe the slate clean and create a new natural paradise,” said Roel Posthoorn, my Dutch host. “I think the heavens would approve.”

Playing God has been on Posthoorn’s mind for a while. We were on our way to Marker Wadden, seven islands so new their coastlines are still being redrawn (five are accessible and two more are set to open next year). All have been artificially created six miles off the coastline of Lelystad in Flevoland and, as nature continues to dictate new rules, they are changing rapidly. Wide, sandy beaches are being sculpted by gently quivering waves. Migratory birds are arriving to create nesting habitats. Bullrushes and reeds are thriving in wetlands. As well as this imagination-freeing Eden, a sustainably minded research lab, day pavilion and info centre, cafe, artist’s studio and four holiday cabins have opened to attract overnight visitors and volunteers. All are off-grid and just over an hour from Amsterdam, but feel much further away.