How to cycle to Iceland, part one: pedalling through Denmark

A gorgeous cycle path through sand dunes on the west Jutland shore helps our writer shake off last-minute challenges as he sets off on his epic trip

A week before departure everything is ready: the polished bicycle laden with four carefully packed panniers, the ferry and train journeys all booked, the accommodation and campsites reserved. Cycling to Iceland is a complex business: ferry to Amsterdam from Newcastle, trains to Aarhus, cycle up through Jutland to the port of Hirtshals, close to the northern tip of Denmark, ferries onward to the Faroe Islands, which I will explore by bicycle before embarking for more cycling around the east of Iceland. Three weeks in total and no flights involved. One small sacrifice for the climate emergency, but also a chance to alert everyone to the wonderful adventures that can be had without flying.

But four days before departure, I find myself in hospital staring at a very sick person who cannot be left. Weeks of planning and preparation are in jeopardy. Departure day passes, but then the miracle of intravenous antibiotics happens and I realise I can still travel, catching up with my own itinerary if I make a few changes.