A local’s guide to Lübeck, Germany: maritime gem full of history and club culture

This ancient Baltic port is the epitome of brick gothic. Local restaurateur Tristan Wilken shines a light on its many charms

Schiffergesellschaft is the oldest restaurant in town, founded 500 years ago by captains of the Hanseatic League, who met there to debate, eat and drink. Soak up the maritime atmosphere at the long, weathered dining tables and try the famous northern dish Labskaus – beef stew with sweet-and-sour garnish, fried quail’s egg and chopped salted herring. It may look a bit strange but it tastes great. In the winter months, traditional pork and kale plates are a speciality.