Mouthwatering Marseille: a taste of France’s f revolution

Anti-establishment Marseille is shaking up French cooking. Here, five of the city’s innovative chefs and restaurateurs reveal their favourite places to eat

Only a vibrant, rebellious town like Marseille could do it: stand up to bourgeois Lyon, Bordeaux and even Paris, the established gourmet destinations, and imagine a new and different French menu, one that fits our time and forges a path forward.

This southern port city is a lot cheaper and sunnier than Paris, but until recently had no fine dining scene – all the good food was eaten at home or in a pizzeria. But over the past five to 10 years, lots of young cooks with diverse food heritages have moved to Marseille to open restaurants and create something new.